Help me make my bag! Too many molds to pick from....

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Help me make my bag! Too many molds to pick from....

Postby maharajah » Fri Jun 20, 2014 2:50 pm

First up I'm a fairly average player, maybe get a 900 rated round if I'm lucky. I max out around 375-400' of golf distance, 400-450' max d lines. Been playing for 8 years on and off. I still have some griplock/timing issues, and I either seem to not have enough snap or some hyzer OAT because my discs seem more stable than everyone else's, even accounting for the elevation here in Denver. I also have trouble getting stable/understable discs to hold anhyzer lines. I've been trying to minimalize my bag a bit, and figure out what I need to get to fill in the holes. Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated :)


Here's the discs I have that I actually use:

Putters
Wizard - 172g Orange Eraser Stable, Stiff but grippy, no fade 5/10
Wizard - 173g Glow/almost-Evolution, Good Fade, Stable, Slick grip Big Shoulder 7/10
Aviar P&A - 170g Understable on drives, glides well 6/10

Mids
Proton Vector FR - 177g Slightly overstable but flies flat before LSS kicks in 8/10
CryZtal Buzz - 177g Laser with slight fade when thrown hard, will hold slight anny line almost all the way 8/10
X-out DX Ontario Roc - 179g Stable, will turn slightly on large drives, huge glide almost no fade, holds anny 7/10
ESP Meteor - 177g Stable with little fade 10/10
X Comet - 167g Stable up to 250ft for me, no fade, holds anny 9/10

Fairway Drivers
Z Pred - 172g, slightly domey, has great forward penetration and holds in any headwind, getting broken in to have decent glide - 7/10
2nd run CE Valkyrie - 169g, super beat in. Flat, Very Stable Valk, will flip to flat on a 350' line and finish left. Great for hyzer flips to 375-400. Feels amazing in the hand. Need to find a replacement mold for this as I'm not paying $100-200 for another one (to use on the course at least ;) - 4/10
MVP Amp - 169g - Stable with fade, Only thrown a few times but a lot more stable than advertised. High PLH with weird flashing in the center of the bottom rim. Probably will trade this or something as I've had trouble removing the flashing but will test some more 9/10
MVP Resistor - 160g, Flat, Total Meathook, had giant flashing I just removed and need to test this again. - 9/10
MVP Servo - 168g, Flat, Very Teebird-like, straight with predictable fade, maybe a tiny bit of turn - 9/10
MVP Switch - 173g - Stable with tiny bit of turn, very similar to Servo but later/less fade. Removed some flashing and will test again. More stable than advertised. 9/10
Star Leopard - 168g - Stable with almost no fade, holds anny line fairly well but sometimes fades out early - 9/10

Distance Drivers
Champ Boss - 174g - I can't throw this worth a shit. Very overstable for me. 7/10
Star Wraith 168g - Most Stable Wraith, Least amount of glide of all my wraiths, usually can't turn this without OAT. 7/10
Pro Wraith - 172g - Go-to Distance Driver, Bigger S-curves than my valk by a bit, usually can't turn this except on rare drives. 8/10
DX Wraith - 166g - Hyzer-flips, Rollers and long Annys, has decent glide 8/10
Champ Beast - 174g - Pretty stable for me, nice glide though with predictable fade 8/10
MVP Inertia - 167g - Been trying this to replace my Pro Wraith. I've been hyzerflipping this out to 400' which is my longest golf drive yet.

The bag I've been working with:

Wizard - 172g 5/10
Wizard - 173g 7/10

Proton Vector FR - 177g 8/10
CryZtal Buzz - 177g 8/10
ESP Meteor - 177g 10/10

MVP Neutron Switch - 173g - 9/10
MVP Neutron Servo - 168g 9/10
Z Pred - 172g 7/10
2nd run CE Valkyrie - 169g 4/10
MVP Neutron Inertia - 167g - 10/10

I've been thinking about trying a P-PD in place of the CE Valkyrie, and a C-PD to replace the beat Z-Pred. Volts might be a contender for this spot but I need to do some more research. I'm wary of inconsistancy in molds.

My Mids are a mess, and I'm still contemplating Rocs, Comets, or even an Axis. My CryZtal Buzz is impossible to find because its clear and has been stained a greenish hue by the grass lol. Sometimes I use the DX Ontario Roc in place of the CryZtal Buzz, because I can use the Vector most of my wide open mid range shots, and the Roc is better for approaches. Comets seem to go better with the Vector and I really like my Vectors. I need to pick up a Z comet and see how it goes for me. Not sold on the feel of the Meteors yet.

Also I'm thinking of trying Ions as I doubt I'm going to be able to find some more Wizards I really like. I'm probably going to want something glidier to complement the ions, how are anodes?

I'll be able to buy some new discs in a couple of weeks. Thinking of getting some PD's (probably heavier weight on the C-PD like 172-174, and 167-171 on the P), a Z comet, and a DX Rancho Roc.
maharajah
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Re: Help me make my bag! Too many molds to pick from....

Postby JR » Sat Jun 21, 2014 11:14 pm

Hi and welcome.

I remove flashing with sand paper. Something like 240 grit for the start and 400+ for finish. Anode has about the same glide as the Ion but depending on the variation (they changed them) fades alter usually so will go farther a bit and of course there is no bead to slow the disc down as quickly but generally they are very close to each other. I have not thrown CE Valks so i have no clie as to how it fles and i live at sea level and have not thrown at elevation. Generally something that would turn at sea level does not high up is what i have heard here. IIRC some members live in Denver. So going by what i have heard you may have too overstable drivers but one thing you did not mention and suits your flight description to a tee is throwing nose up. That will make discs behave more os and getting them out of annies fading harder than that of the other players. Which is why you should check the wear and is possible test throw one of their discs to see if they have beaten in their discs more. A very weak grip could do the same if you are constantly getting minimal very late slips that still leave in the proper direction. Or early slips that you compensate for in aiming and running direction etc. Borrowing a disc that does not fade out to see if it does for you may indicate nose angle issues. If a borrowed straight disc does not fade you might need more breaking in with the current discs or more understable discs. I would not purchase new discs before resolving what is the issue with your discs acting more os that that of others. Then the flights of each of your dscs may change and that is the first time a bag selection can be considered seriously for the first time. Other than the Wraith is a beefy disc fade distance and power requirement wise even at sea level. I out distance the Wraith a bit with the Beast even though it is slower thanks to the fade kicking in later and milder so the glide is maximized.

I would imagine being up so high you get winds so going lighter with the discs is not a good trend but maybe one light driver for rear winds and calm weather might not be too much. And for getting out of trouble shots, throwing above trees far away an hail Mary shots even a Blizzard 13x or 14x could work. At sea level there is no place for straight at normal weights discs like Beasts or even the spedd stable Katana in light weights but for mountain golf maybe. I've understood that there are courses at widely different elevations around you so discs that work at Denver may not be straight or us enough on the highest of courses so the nag nees to reflect that at least on those higher courses.

Are there a lot of rocks around there? If so P PDs will not survive for long unless they have reverted back to the original driver pro blend. Even then they will break in fairly quickly. C PDs vary a lot depending on the run and if they are fundraisers which are closer to PDs than some regular ones that go a lot straighter. Z Comet flips less easily over time because it breaks in way slower and has more fade than the X. If a tall beaded putter is no problem a Judge from Dynamic discs glides a lot.
Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.
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Re: Help me make my bag! Too many molds to pick from....

Postby maharajah » Sun Jun 22, 2014 12:28 am

Hey JR. Thanks for the help. I've read a lot of your posts and seen some of your videos on youtube. Great footage, I love it.

The 2nd run CE Valkyrie is special for a Valk in that they were some of the flattest champ discs I've ever seen, and incredibly overstable for a Valk. While I've never thrown a fresh one I've heard they are comparable to Firebirds. Mine's beat to the point I'd imagine a Volt or a beat P-PD should be now.

You are correct that higher elevations add stability to discs, but I believe they do this in the form of additional speed and reduced glide, as the air is thinner. A harder throw should allow for further distances at elevation, as the disc should be able to handle more. I'm imagining my Pro Wraiths are more like Star Destroyers at this elevation, if that makes sense. Wind here is not much worse than other places, usually around 5-15 mph. I like to go with the lighter weights on my drivers when I can get away with it as I seem to be able to get them up to speed better. My local course has very few trees and no rocks, and it's actually difficult to break in discs there. This is my first year at this elevation so I'm still adjusting. My Buzzz still turns around 300' of power or more, and doesn't come back. That seems about normal for me, so I don't think it's that drastic of a difference. Maybe other discs are more sensitive.

I do sometimes throw nose-up. Do you have any tips for staying more nose-down on Anhyzers? They seem to be my hardest shot to hold with anything other than my most understable discs. I am sure some of the troubles I'm having are due to the stability of the discs though, as I can hyzerflip the Star Leopard pretty easily but the Switch has almost no turn. The Servo and the Switch are almost identical discs with the Servo having just a bit more LSS. Similarly with the overstable discs, my Z-pred glides on a nice line drifting a bit left while the Resistor immediately spikes into the ground unlike anything I've ever seen. It's been raining today or I would have tested some more after I removed the flashing. Of the MVP discs I recently got and liked, the ones with no flashing (Servo, Inertia, Vector) flew much more like I expected, other than the Amp. The Servo had a much better flight to it but I'm not sure if it's because I'm not getting the Amp up to speed, or the Amp I got is not flying like it should be. Perhaps it is just not as flippy of a disc as I thought in the first place. I'm not sure I really like the Neutron plastic on these drivers though as it seems quite slick and seem to add to slip issues.

I know the Wraith is on the very upper end of my power level right now which is why I've been trying the Inertia for a nice distance hyzerflip. On clean releases it also is seeming a little flippy; once it starts to turn it keeps the turn all the way to the ground, which can be hard to control. Previously I had disc'd down a bit and the Valk/Pred were my longest discs. I really want to find some consistant molds and minimize my bag as much as possible. I'd probably be happy if I could throw a variety of Wizards, Rocs, and PDs or something like that, but I don't feel confident I can even beat in a P-PD to the point I can get it to hold an anhyzer.
maharajah
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Re: Help me make my bag! Too many molds to pick from....

Postby JR » Sun Jun 22, 2014 7:01 am

Annies need a lot of rear leg push and running speed to get you weight neutral. Standing upright back to front direction when the disc leaves. That will drop the front of the disc lower. Regular things like wrist down and raising the disc to closer or to the inner joint of the thumb keeping the front in the normal place. That needs more grip power in a shot requiring more squeezing than other shots. Bc a roller is an anny too. Slick discs and anny are demanding to say the least.

Annies are the easiest throws for getting the front down.
Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.
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