Discmania

[MDP]

Damnit Trey, now I'm all excited.

What gear did they include?

[jubuttib]

Jbuttib,

Might I ask you some questions.

So I got my stash from Discmania and I was looking at/feeling/fondling all the discs. I got some questions for you on the MD2's please.

So I have -
1) 3 USDGC C-MD2's (these are the flat first runs in that nice grippy plastic) Start out pretty stable and then break into what I would like to call a fast seasoned shark.
2) 2 Production C-MD2's (1 Yellow 176 flat, 1 Orange 176 Domed) - Could you let me know the differences between the flat and domed? I've only ever thrown flat C-MD2's
3) 2 Production S-MD2's (1 Yellow 176 Domed, 1 Orange 176 Domed) - Could you let me know the differences between the domed C-line MD2's and the domed S-Line MD2's
4) 1 Christmas Stamped P-MD2 (Orange 180, very very small dome) - This one is nice and almost comet like, just faster. Holds all lines, but now pops up from hyzer if thrown hard (she's used)

Tell me what you think. I'd like to get some of these in the bag soon before my next tournament in less than 2 weeks.

I actually haven't thrown that wide a variety of different kinds of C-MD2, only a few domey CFR C-Lines (yellow and orange) and my current lurvly pinks. Didn't really hit it off with the domey ones because the plastic wasn't that nice, the dome didn't feel that good in my hand (base plastic seems to work for me even when domey), they had more fade than I wanted when new (didn't bother to find out how they beat in) and they slowed down really fast compared to the flatter R-Pros I was throwing then. The flat ones on the other hand instantly felt yummy, even in -15 Celsius weather. With the flash still there they had a touch more fade than I liked, but after deflashing they've been just pure money.

1) Are they sort of gummy? A bit opaque maybe? The C-MD2's I use are flat and gummy, and that sort seems to be the one favored by Discmania team members too.

2) See above. Also check the PLH. I think Varsi used his domey orange C-MD2 for a while and said that it flies like an MD2, eventually at least. Haven't seen him throwing that for ages though, he's been rocking an old orange P-Line lately. I still prefer the flat ones though.

3) The difference will be in the PLH. Both are just about equally fast and glidey from what I've seen. I never really liked my domey S-MD2 that much either. Come to think of it, I've yet to particularly like any domey MD2, apart from the D-Lines. The old, almost flat orange P-MD2's that were mismolded (they have a more concave wing than any other MD2) are easily the best around, next come the flat C-Lines, after that the D-Lines that can be beaten to understable really nicely (the older red P-MD2's also fit here), followed by the current domey P-Lines (they're not bad, but I'm just not as comfortable with them as I'd like to be. Definitely usable after seasoning though), and lastly we have all domey MD2's. They just don't seem to hold lines as well and slow down faster, and I can't seem to get my anhyzers dialed in with them. Though this is most likely due to the fact that I got so used to how the old P-Lines flew.

4) Christmas stamp (old), small dome and orange? GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME!!!

Seriously, I'm willing to pay or trade for that Christmas P-MD2.

[Trey133]

Right now the christmas PMD2 and my flat C's are in the bag. I was thinking about throwing in an S-MD2 to see if I can't beat her up.

1) The USDGC C-MD2's are gummy, opaque, grippy, super flat, and AMAZING. I kinda thought that these were the real deals
2) So far the domed up ones are super beef and very short rage compared to my beat in C's and that Pline
3) I'll have to sit down and take a look at the PLH's in each. I'm interested to see which one might be less stable.
4) Haha! I don't think I can good sir. The old P's really are amazing

[jubuttib]

1) The USDGC C-MD2's are gummy, opaque, grippy, super flat, and AMAZING. I kinda thought that these were the real deals

Yep, pretty much what I expected.

4) Haha! I don't think I can good sir. The old P's really are amazing

Only the orange ones, I'm afraid. And next to impossible to find. And even if you manage to find them second hand, no-one will want to part with them.

Thankfully all of my Discmania promo-work here got me some that were miss-stamped with the S-Line stamp.

EDIT: Went out to the field today to try out my LEGENDa, but took my Axes, Z Comet and a seasoned orange P-MD2 with me. Hadn't thrown that thing for ages, and right from the get go it just clicked. It flew like a hybrid between the Comet and the Axis, except a bit faster, and was more OAT and wind resistant, AND with better grip. It's just such a damn shame they're so rare.

[zj1002]

I got the OK to add a stable mid to my bag. I have 1-2 slots available in the bag. Thinking about going with the C-MD2 rather than my 4x Kenny. The flat opaque yellow ones I had were nice and stable and I liked they feel a lot like the QMS. Just got a CFR C-MD2 off a coworker(Big D stamp) and it feels pretty sweet(these are the good ones right?). Thinking that should cover my mid lineup. QMS x3, C-MD2 x2, Q-Sentinel x1(or 2).

[jubuttib]

All of the flat and opaque C's I've seen have been "the good ones", you should be OK.

[zj1002]

So yeah I think I know the tops to the MD2...if no one else had looked at them.

There are definitely 2 C-MD2 tops. The CFR C-line is definitely the same mold parts in the current run of Aurora MS(Shark top + Stingray bottom). The CFR ones are basically QMS 2.0(2.0 because of the new stingray bottom not on current stock of QMS yet).

The production stock stamps look like a Roc top. So it is basically the old Aurora MF + micro bead from new stingray bottom. Same old discs, new names fellas.

I compared the Aurora MS, CFR MD2, Stock C-MD2, and S-MD2 based on store stock and my own stash

edit: I do see that Jub covered the part about the MS previously but wanted to know what the new top is. It looks a lot like a Rancho top.

[zj1002]

Jub I am curious...if you like the original top P-MD2...the current run of Aurora MS is the exact same disc. Same top with the new stingray bottom(micro bead). Just buy those, that should be cheaper

[jubuttib]

Jub I am curious...if you like the original top P-MD2...the current run of Aurora MS is the exact same disc. Same top with the new stingray bottom(micro bead). Just buy those, that should be cheaper

Not quite. At least the ones I have on hand have different core pieces, the Aurora is Ontario tooling and all of my MD2's, from the oldest FR P's to the newest production C's, are Rancho tooling. Is the Aurora MS rim supposed to be slanted on purpose? The MD2 definitely is a +mold by design. Secondly, I mainly like the orange FR P-MD2's, not any other colors. The orange ones molded up with a much more concave wing profile and fly differently from the others. I'm not 100% all of the orange ones are like this, but every single one I've seen in any weight has been, and it's possible that the other colors could have had some like that, but none of the ones I've seen in any weight has been. Additionally they were made of an excellent blend of R-Pro that has proven itself durable and very very grippy.

I have thrown the Aurora MS and it is indeed very close to the red FR P-MD2's. Apart from the core piece and plastic they're same disc, and share the same flaws. Both turn a bit too easily, and I'd only use them slightly beaten in and in the understable slot. The MS is a very Star-like blend of Pro, which I do like, but it seems to have added a bit of unwanted fade to it, at least when new. It was easier for me to get an s-curve out of it than a totally straight flight.

When you said that the old CFR C-MD2's had the old top, I had to check my old S-Line again, because I remembered that it was more blunt than in the orange P-Lines. And indeed it is, a bit, but it's definitely the old top, not the new blunt one. And the problem I had with the S-Line was exactly the same as I had with the Aurora MS. It usually had more fade than I wanted, and it turned on me more often than the orange P-Lines. More of an s-curve disc, whereas the orange ones just liked to fly straight.

EDIT: And the problem with the old orange P-Lines isn't price, it's the simple fact that I can't find a single one of them anywhere. =)

[JR]

I switched from power grip to a stack grip and got all mids and putters to behave way better, than with index finger scraping before. More consistent disc pivot straightened out everything reducing initial hyzer requirement. This was the first time i was able to get golfable results at more than 270' power out of my SG 177 MD 1. No need for initial hyzer now and no flipping at all even in mild headwinds. I have to see how that changes, when i encounter more wind. All my previous results are antiquated now, when i don't rip so fast with the arm, but still quite snappily in the end. Repeatable accurate distance has increased with lesser power generation. Joy! I'm quite happy with the MD 1 to 300' or a little more. I still am better punching the Star Wedge harder more like a driver than the SG MD 1. Go figure, but the Wedge needs initial hyzer to flip to flat at a wide distance range.

[maskedavenger]

I switched from power grip to a stack grip and got all mids and putters to behave way better.

This! My get-distance-quick-scheme for the summer of 2011. Totally made throwing the slower stuff easier. I use a stacked fork grip (index gripping rim, pinching the thumb, others piled on the rim/plate) but have also been trying out whaddayacallit, kind of an inverse heavy metal sign (you know, middle and ring extended, index and pinkie on the inside of rim sort of) grip.

[JR]

I switched from power grip to a stack grip and got all mids and putters to behave way better.

This! My get-distance-quick-scheme for the summer of 2011. Totally made throwing the slower stuff easier. I use a stacked fork grip (index gripping rim, pinching the thumb, others piled on the rim/plate) but have also been trying out whaddayacallit, kind of an inverse heavy metal sign (you know, middle and ring extended, index and pinkie on the inside of rim sort of) grip.

Gonna try that grip too. Have you tried to stick the fingers in more vertically and using just the outer part of the ring and index fingers inside the disc?

[maskedavenger]

You lost me. Vertical? Outer part? Difficult to understand in mere words.

[Trey133]

I switched from power grip to a stack grip and got all mids and putters to behave way better.

This! My get-distance-quick-scheme for the summer of 2011. Totally made throwing the slower stuff easier. I use a stacked fork grip (index gripping rim, pinching the thumb, others piled on the rim/plate) but have also been trying out whaddayacallit, kind of an inverse heavy metal sign (you know, middle and ring extended, index and pinkie on the inside of rim sort of) grip.

Drop the ring finger on the rim, and keep the middle finger extended and you have Seppos grip for middy's and drivers.

I find that although I initially hold the disc powergripped, I push my middle finger out right before the pull across the chest. Pretty interesting.

[JR]

You lost me. Vertical? Outer part? Difficult to understand in mere words.

Face the target and raise the arm straight pointing at the target with the disc in the hand. I think that for most the natural tendency is to put the fingers diagonally on the rim of the disc. That is the finger tips point backwards over your head. In this way the disc is closer to the top of the index finger. If you align the fingers differently so, that the fingers point closer to upwards (doesn't need to be pointed totally up -it would most likely be detrimental). This way the finger tips push the bottom of the flight plate up and separate the rim/wing corner from the top of the index finger eliminating scraping and OAT from that cause.